What to wear on a whale safari in Tromsø
A whale safari from Tromsø lasts from seven and a half hours to more than twelve, and the viewing happens outside on deck in the wind. Dress for standing still in freezing air for an hour or two. Walking around town in the same clothes is a much easier test.
Why the deck is colder than the street
Winter air in Tromsø usually sits a few degrees below freezing, often around -3 °C (27 °F). That sounds mild for the Arctic. At sea it feels like another climate, because the boat's own speed adds a steady wind to whatever is already blowing, and damp sea air pulls heat out of you faster than dry cold inland.
Then there is the waiting. When the whales are found, you stand at the rail for an hour or more without moving much. In the polar night the sun never clears the horizon, so the twilight gives no warmth at all. Being comfortable on the open deck also helps if you are prone to nausea, as our seasickness guide explains.
Layers from the skin out
- Base layer. A long-sleeved thermal top and long johns in merino wool or a synthetic fabric. Skip cotton, which stays damp once you sweat.
- Middle layer. A wool sweater or a thick fleece. Two thin layers trap more warm air than one thick one.
- Insulated jacket. Down or synthetic fill, big enough to wear over the sweater.
- Outer shell. A windproof and waterproof jacket with a hood, because spray reaches the upper decks too.
- Legs. Ski pants or insulated pants over the long johns. Jeans soak up spray and stay cold all day.
- Head and neck. A wool hat that covers your ears. Add a buff or neck gaiter you can pull up over your nose.
Inside the heated lounges you will want to strip down to the sweater within minutes. Pick layers that come off fast, with zips you can work in gloves.
Who hands out suits
Only some tours provide extra clothing, and the big day boats mostly do not. The table sums up what the listings say.
| Tour | From | Clothing provided |
|---|---|---|
| Our pick, fast catamaran | ~$217 | No suits listed. A heated panoramic lounge and free hot drinks between spells on deck |
| Brim hybrid-electric boat | ~$196 | No suits listed. Heated saloons with three outdoor decks |
| Rødne high-speed catamaran | ~$196 | No suits listed. Hot drinks and seasickness tablets included |
| Polar Adventures, max 50 | ~$235 | Thermal suits included |
| Arctic Adventure Tours RIB | ~$334 | Thermal flotation suit with boots and goggles. Mittens and a life vest as well |
| Magic Skjervøy RIB | ~$353 | Flotation suit with waterproof boots and ski goggles. Mittens and balaclavas as well |
| Skua heated boat | ~$383 | No suit needed on the covered, heated boat |
A thermal suit goes over your own clothes, so you still need warm layers underneath, and on the big boats nobody hands out boots. If you would rather not pack a full winter outfit, Polar Adventures at ~$235 includes thermal suits, and Skua Nature's covered boat at ~$383 keeps you in a heated cabin with an open observation deck for the sightings. What else is left out of the price is in our cost guide.
A warm lounge between sightings
Our pick, the fast catamaran from ~$217, has 147 seats for at most 90 guests. Warm up inside with free hot chocolate, then head back to the rail when the whales surface.
On an open RIB
A RIB is a different sport. At speed the wind chill on an open boat is brutal, which is why Arctic Adventure Tours at ~$334 and the Magic Skjervøy RIB at ~$353 put every guest in a full flotation suit with goggles. Under it, wear a thermal base layer and a fleece rather than a puffy down jacket that will not fit. A thin balaclava or neck gaiter under the hood protects the face, which is the part that suffers most.
Both RIB days start with a bus around 5 am and hours on the road, so dress to open up on the bus and close up again at the harbor. Arctic Adventure Tours asks guests to bring their own snacks. RIB or big boat compares the two styles of day.
Feet and hands
Cold feet end more whale days than anything else. A cold metal or wet deck draws heat through thin soles in minutes. Wear insulated winter boots with thick rubber soles that grip on a wet surface, with enough room that a thick wool sock still leaves your toes space to move. One good pair of wool socks beats two pairs crammed in. A dry spare pair for the trip home costs nothing to carry.
For hands, mittens are warmer than gloves because the fingers share heat. If you want to take pictures, wear thin liner gloves under the mittens and pull the mittens off when the whales show. Chemical hand warmers last for hours in a pocket, and outdoor shops in town sell them. Our photography guide has more on working a camera in the cold.
Batteries and the small things
Cold drains phone and camera batteries fast. Keep the phone in an inside pocket close to your body and carry a power bank. Rødne has charging points on board and Polar Adventures offers USB charging, but on a RIB there is nowhere to plug in. Add lip balm and a pack of tissues, because cold wind makes noses run. Sunglasses rarely matter in midwinter twilight. A small backpack is fine on most boats, though Polar Adventures does not allow big bags.
Packing from a cruise cabin
Many readers step off a ship into the morning darkness with whatever they packed at home. Bring every warm layer from the cabin, including the ski pants you almost left behind. The day tours from the city center leave between 7:30 and 9 am in full darkness. The streets down to the quay can be icy, so slip-on ice grips for your boots help on the walk. Take them off once you are on board.
Outdoor shops in the center sell winter clothing if something is missing, but they may not be open before an 8 am departure, so shop the day before when you can. Timing a whale tour around your ship has the berths and all-aboard maths. Children get cold faster than adults, and our family guide covers which tours suit them.