When the whales are near Tromsø
The whales keep to a timetable set by a fish. When the herring arrive in the northern fjords in autumn, the orcas and humpbacks follow, and when the herring leave in late winter, so do they. Between those two moments lies the season, and the weeks inside it are not all the same.
The season in one sentence
From about late October to the end of January, sometimes into February, orcas and humpback whales feed on herring in the fjords and sounds north of Tromsø, and the boats sail out to them every day the weather allows. Rødne's catamarans run from October 23 to January 31, and the operator of MS Gabriele keeps selling February dates because whales have often stayed that long. Outside this window there are no whale safaris from Tromsø at all.
Month by month
| Month | Whales | Daylight | What to expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Late October | Arriving | About 7 h | First boats run, sightings building, softer light for photos |
| November | Good | Shrinking fast | Orcas and humpbacks settled in, polar night begins late in the month |
| December | Peak | Twilight only | Most whales, darkest days, blue and pink noon light |
| January | Peak, then fading | Sun returns mid-month | Still many whales, light coming back, stormier weather |
| February | Uncertain | Growing | Some years good, some years over; only a few boats sail |
December and January are the months operators call the peak. Late October and early November have more daylight and often calmer weather, but the whales can still be arriving. Late January can be excellent or already quiet, depending on when the herring move off. Nobody knows in advance, which is why the second-chance policies matter more toward either end of the season.
The light you sail in
From late November to mid-January, the sun does not rise over Tromsø. It is not black all day, though. For three or four hours around noon, the sky turns deep blue, then pink and amber over the snow-covered mountains, and that twilight is when the boats reach the whales. The scenery is unforgettable. For photographers it is hard work, because there is little light for a fast shutter. Our photo guide explains the settings, and why late October and late January are easier for pictures.
The boats leave in darkness and come back in darkness. Pack a headlamp or a phone light for the walk to the pier, and do not expect a sunny day on deck.
A December day with the whales
Our pick sails at 8:30 am through the whole season and gives you a free repeat trip on another date if you see no whales.
Weather and sea
Midwinter is also storm season on the Norwegian coast. The fjords where the whales feed are mostly sheltered, but the way there crosses open water, and strong wind can make the crossing rough or cancel the trip. Operators cancel when it is unsafe, and you get a refund or a new date. Rødne and the MS Gabriele crew may swap a rough whale route for a sheltered fjord cruise instead. If your trip allows it, book whale watching early in your stay so you have spare days, and read our seasickness guide before a stormy forecast.
Whales by day, Northern Lights by night
The whale season sits right in the middle of the Northern Lights season, and many visitors want both. It works, with one warning. The big whale boats are back around 4 to 5 pm, which leaves the evening free for an aurora tour. The 12-hour Skjervøy days start before 5 am, so skip a late Northern Lights trip the night before; the RIB operators advise against it themselves. Our sister site compares the Northern Lights tours from Tromsø if you want to plan the evening too.
There is also one tour that does both in a single trip. The 24-hour expedition on MV Quest at ~$439 sails out in the evening with private cabins and dinner, wakes you if the aurora appears, and is already in the whale fjord at first light. It has under 50 reviews so far, so treat it as a promising newcomer rather than a safe bet.
How far ahead to book
The big boats rarely sell out weeks ahead, but the small groups do. The heated boat for twelve at ~$383 and the Skjervøy RIB at ~$334 fill up around Christmas and New Year. All six cancel for free up to 24 hours before, so booking early costs you nothing. Cruise passengers should book as soon as the port times are confirmed, and read our cruise guide first.